- A fully charged battery is unable to turn the dynastarter.
- The charging light (red on speedometer) is always lit when riding the scooter.
There are at least three causes for these conditions.
- The brushes are stuck, or worn, and need replacement.
- There is a short between the coils and ground. This may occur due to the insulation breaking down due to age.
- One (or more) coils are bad. This situation may occur if you incorrectly connect the regulator wires.
- 5mm allen wrench.
- Slotted screw driver.
- Dynastart removal tool.
- Tools to remove engine.
- Assortment of metric wrenches.
- Gasket sealant.
Remove engine. To gain access to the stator assembly on an A1 or A2, you must remove the engine. These directions are listed elsewhere on this site. Important note, remove the shifter arm before removing the engine. These are fragile and I almost guarantee you will break it. Then you are 3+ weeks from completing this 2 hour job.
Remove RH engine shroud. The RH engine shroud is held in place by five 10mm nuts, two in the front, two in the rear and one above the flywheel. I generally replace the lower front nut with a nylon lock nut. Whenever I pursue subsequent removal of the shrouds, I never remove this nut again. When the engine is installed, it is a pain to remove.
Remove points assembly. The points are located under the points cover on the outside of the flywheel cover. Disconnect the points wire from the coil, and then remove the points assembly. It is a good idea to mark the inside of the points area with a pencil and make that mark correspond to some part of the points assembly. This way you will know where to set them during re-assembly.
Remove flywheel cover. The flywheel cover is held in place by two 10mm nuts, and three 14mm nuts.
Remove timing advance mechanism. The timing advance mechanism is under the chrome disk held in place by the four 8mm screws.
Remove flywheel. This step requires the flywheel removal tool. The tool is available from the Heinkel Club Deutschland. First off, you must remove the 17mm screw from the inside of the flywheel assembly. You must figure out a way to hold the flywheel in place while removing the screw. If you use the flywheel fan as a method to stop rotation of the flywheel, be careful. The fins are brittle. Once the screw, lock washer and thick washer are removed, reinstall the screw. Leave the washers out. Next screw in the flywheel puller. Then tighten the inner screw of the flywheel puller. The flywheel will come off.
Remove coil. (Although not necessarily required, it makes the job much easier.) The coil is held in by three allen head screws. That is the easy part. The more difficult job is remove the wire bushing (I need a better term here) from the engine cases. This bushing is pressed into the slot. It is difficult to remove without damaging wires in the process. Don't yank on either side of the wires, or you may have a larger repair job ahead of you. I try to use a wide head screw driver on the back side to lever out the bushing.
Remove old brushes. There are four brushes. The top two are positive brushes, and the bottom two are negative. The bottom two are easy. Disconnect the brush lead from the post, and reinstall the new brush in each holder. The positive brushes are a bit more difficult. Each are insulated from the coil assembly by four insulating washers, two insulating tubes, and one formed piece of thick paper. I would recommend replacing one of these brushes, and then do the second. This practice will leave you with a spare example in case someone calls you in to do housework (and making you forget what you were doing).
Install coil. If you were successful in removing the coil, this job will be easy. I recommend inspecting the wires near the bushing to make sure there are no breaks, etc. Also, apply a little grease to the bushing to ease the installation.
Test installation. I hope to get this written up sometime soon.
Install flywheel. Line up the keyway in the flywheel with the woodruff key and slide it into place. Install the 17mm bolt, new lock washer, and shoulder washer. Figure out a method to hold the flywheel in place, and tighten the bolt to 6.5 KgM in torque.
Install timing advance mechanism. The hole placement prevents errors here. This assembly will only install in one direction.
Install flywheel fan. Install fan, and chrome cover, and install the four 8mm screws with lock washers.
Install flywheel cover. Ok this is important. The lower LH 6mm cylinder stud comes straight out of the engine. If you do not properly seal this stud, you will have a leaking scooter. So, goop up stud with sealant. Be liberal. Install flywheel cover. Add more goop to the outside of the flywheel cover. Add flat washer and nylon nut.
Install RH engine shroud. If you've gotten this far, this task should be easy.
Install engine. I hate this work with Heinkels. The engines are heavy! I place my engine on a pneumatic lift and roll it into place.
Install electrical trunks. Again, this should be easy. If you have forgotten the which wire goes where, consult my A2 Wiring Diagram.
Install control cables. This job is discussed elsewhere on my site.
Install body. Ditto.
Note: I hope to add photos at some point...